Murni and Jonathan's Bali Blog

Mask Ceremony, Ubud, Bali

murnisbali — Wed, 14 Sep 2011 04:59:26 +0000

Last month the whole community in Ubud attended an unusual ceremony.

: Balinese Mask.

Balinese masks take many forms and are usually carved from a special, fine-grained, cream-coloured, light wood called pule (alstonia scholaris), which grows in graveyards. Two of the masks in question came from a pule tree in the graveyard near Murni’s Houses and the other from another graveyard in Peliatan at the other end of Ubud.

: Gate to Pura Dalem, Ubud, Bali.

The tree must be ‘pregnant’, that is to say ready and suitable for carving, evidenced by the bark swelling slightly outwards. The mask maker goes to the tree on an auspicious day, presents his offerings and requests the tree’s permission. He then chops a slab of wood with his axe and takes it back and waits for inspiration.

They are kept in special shrines and receive offerings every full and new moon, on Kajeng-Kliwon, which is every fifteen days, and also when they are used. In addition, they get special offerings on a day known as Tumpek Krulut, which occurs every 210 days.

Pura Dalem, Ubud, Bali.

The night before the big night the community prayed in Pura Dalem, the temple associated with the dead, and where the masks were kept. In front of them were thousands of offerings.

: Sidhakarya Dancer in Pura Dalem, Ubud, Bali.

Outside the main courtyard was a sole dancer. It was Sidhakarya – the same masked dance as one of the three masks that were the subject of the ceremony.

Balinese masks are of ancient origin and act like a lightning rod in the sense that they attract the spirit of the person to be portrayed. They are the vehicles of the gods and are sacred.

: White haired Rangda Mask.

There were three masks involved in the ceremony at Pura Dalem. There was Sidhakarya and two Rangda masks, one white haired and one red-brown haired.

: Red-brown haired Rangda Mask.

Rangda is the Queen of the Witches, tall and has tusks. Some temples have two Rangda masks, one red and the other white. The red one represents the more dangerous Rangda. The white one stresses her royal birth—some say Rangda is based on the 11th century Princess Mahendradatta.

: Procession to Pura Gunung Lebah, Campuan, Bali.

The night before the main night the masks were carried down to the sacred Wos river in Campuhan for a purification ceremony at the temple known as Pura Gunung Lebah.

: Sidhakarya Mask in Pura Gunung Lebah, Campuan, Bali.

The main night involved a procession along the main street of Ubud to the temple in Peliatan as the wood for the other mask came from the graveyard in Peliatan and then they went back to the graveyard in Ubud. It was after midnight and dark. The graveyard was packed and the three masks were surrounded by priests. All lights were turned off and the crowd was asked to leave while the priests stayed with the masks waiting for a sign that the gods approved. Such a sign would be lights falling from the sky. There was approval.

There’s more about Balinese Masks, Ceremonies, Sidhakarya and Rangda in Secrets of Bali.

There are more photographs on www.jonathaninbali.com

Balinese Masks are available at Murni’s Warung Shop and on line.

Filed under: Bali Tagged: Asia, Bali, Balinese people, ceremony, dancers, hinduism, Indonesia, Mask, Murni's Houses, Peliatan, pule, Pura Dalem, Rangda, Sidhakarya, Tumpek Krulut, Ubud

Kuningan in Ubud, Bali

murnisbali — Sat, 16 Jul 2011 16:33:22 +0000

Today is Kuningan in Ubud, Bali, which is the last day of the 10 day holiday beginning on Galungan when the gods descend and are present. Today the gods leave Bali.

Penjor at Murni's Houses.

The roads are decorated, shrines are covered in glorious textiles and statues are dressed.

Balinese Guardian Statue dressed in Poleng textile.

The Balinese pray at their temples and shrines. It’s an important and happy day.

Balinese Gate at Murni's Houses.

Murni’s Warung was closed as the Balinese staff are all too busy to work. So I left Murni’s Houses to walk into town for lunch. I looked back at the large Balinese gate and admired the penjor, the large bamboo pole, which is symbolic on many levels, and the offerings stuffed into the niches on either side of the door.

Shop on the main street of Ubud.

Walking down the main street I photographed a few shrines and the shop where I’ve often bought udeng, the Balinese headdress for men, from the old lady, who also sells hats. She’s always smiling. She had a rather nice double shrine.

People going about their business, Ubud., Bali.

A little further down shop girls were chatting happily as a lady went about her business carrying a plastic container on her head.

Pig Barong, Ubud, Bali.

Throughout this period Barongs parade along the streets, always accompanied by umbrellas and music.

Balinese gamelan music accompanies the Barong.

I mentioned in an earlier post that there are different types of Barong. This one is the pig Barong.

I decided to follow it and soon it stopped in front of a house and danced bringing good luck to the family who lived there.

Balinese photographer.

I spotted a Balinese girl photographing me. We became friends and she invited me into her home to see her family temple and meet the family. Photography is like that.

The family temple was a beautiful one with magnificently decorated shrines.

But better than that there were several generations of welcoming people.

The Youngest One.

The youngest member was intrigued to see a large, ungainly foreigner wander in.

Sister.

His sister was more comfortable with the intruder and slightly bemused.

Aunt.

His aunt had eyes that looked right through you and melted your heart.

Mother.

His mother was proud and smiley.

Grandmother.

His grandmother had a wonderful, wise and kindly face.

Grandmother's friend.

Her friend was sitting beside her.

There’s more about Galungan, Kuningan and Barongs in Secrets of Bali.

There are more photographs on www.jonathaninbali.com

The Barongs of Bali (murnisbali.wordpress.com)

Filed under: Bali Tagged: Asia, Bali, Balinese people, barong, Galungan, gamelan musicl, girls, Indonesia, Kuningan, portraits, Provinces, restaurant, shrines, temples, Travel and Tourism, Ubud

New Spa Ceremony in Ubud, Bali

murnisbali — Fri, 03 Jun 2011 06:41:36 +0000